03 — Abu Mena

The vast pilgrimage-city that grew over the reputed tomb of St. Menas in the Mareotis (Mariout) desert, roughly 45 km southwest of Alexandria, at the place called Abu Mena (Karm Abū Mīna): the tomb-church (Gruftkirche) over the crypt, the monumental Great Basilica (the Martyr-Church) traditionally associated with the emperor Arcadius and the building under Zeno, the baptistery, the healing baths and sacred springs, the pilgrim hostels (xenodochia), and the colonnaded streets of a town that existed to receive those who came to the saint. These files set out the excavated complex — first uncovered by Carl Maria Kaufmann (Frankfurt expedition, 1905–1907) and investigated since by the long campaigns of the Deutsches Archäologisches Institut under Peter Grossmann — its rise to its fifth- to seventh-century peak and its decline after the Persian (619) and Arab (642) conquests, its UNESCO World Heritage status (1979) and its placement on the List of World Heritage in Danger (2001); and the founding legend of the relics carried by camel that, at a certain spot in the desert, would go no further, taken as the saint’s own choice of his burial place.

Tradition: Pan-Orthodox / Coptic (Great Martyr; Wonderworker)

The shrine is the firmest evidence in the entire Menas dossier. Where the Passio is a legendary text of uncertain date (see The Historical Core), Abu Mena is in the ground: an excavated pilgrimage-city, measurable and datable, whose scale is the scale of a major cult. This section treats the material heart of the case. The first file describes the complex itself — the tomb-church and the Great Basilica, the baptistery and the baths, the hostels and the colonnaded streets, and the long history of its excavation, decline, and modern protection. The second file treats the tradition that explains why the shrine stands where it stands: the founding-by-camel legend, in which the relics borne back toward Egypt could be carried no further than a certain place in the Mareotis, where the camel knelt and refused to rise, and where the shrine was raised. That second account is reported throughout as the legend attests it, pinned to its source and never asserted as documented history (see METHODOLOGY.md §3.5).

The two files are complementary: the city is the firm ground, the founding legend the soft. The legend explains the site retrospectively and supplies the saint’s distinctive iconography — the orant figure between two crouching camels — but it is a tradition, not a record, and the section holds the two in their proper relation, neither collapsing the one into the other nor letting the splendour of the excavated city underwrite the historicity of the camel-tale.

Files in This Section

File Description
The Great Pilgrimage City The excavated pilgrimage complex at Abu Mena / Karm Abū Mīna in the Mareotis desert: the original tomb-church (Gruftkirche) over the crypt, the monumental Great Basilica (Martyr-Church) associated by tradition with Arcadius and built under Zeno in the late fifth century, the baptistery, the bath complexes and sacred springs, the pilgrim hostels (xenodochia), and the colonnaded streets — a city built around a saint. The excavation history (Kaufmann’s Frankfurt expedition of 1905–1907; the long DAI campaigns under Peter Grossmann); the decline after the Persian (619) and Arab (642) conquests; and the UNESCO World Heritage inscription (1979) and placement on the List of World Heritage in Danger (2001) for rising groundwater.
The Camel and the Founding Legend The founding-of-the-shrine tradition, attestation-pinned: the relics carried (per legend) from Phrygia / Cotyaeum back toward Egypt; the camel(s) bearing the body that, at a certain spot in the Mareotis, would go no further — kneeling, or refusing to rise — taken as the saint’s choice of his burial place; the shrine founded there. The motif’s reflection in the celebrated iconography of the saint between two camels, and the methodological care with which a founding aetiology must be read — as a tradition explaining the site and the image retrospectively, not as a record of how the shrine came to be.

See Also

References

  • Kaufmann, Carl Maria. Die Menasstadt und das Nationalheiligtum der altchristlichen Aegypter. Leipzig: Hiersemann, 1910. (The foundational excavation report on the shrine complex and the ampullae.)
  • Grossmann, Peter. Abû Mînâ I: Die Gruftkirche und die Gruft. Mainz: von Zabern, 1989; and numerous DAI excavation reports. (The principal modern archaeology of the tomb-church and the wider site.)
  • Grossmann, Peter. “Abu Mina.” In The Coptic Encyclopedia, ed. Aziz S. Atiya, 8 vols. New York: Macmillan, 1991. (The site, its phases, and the imperial-patronage question.)
  • Drescher, James. Apa Mena: A Selection of Coptic Texts Relating to St. Menas. Cairo: Société d’archéologie copte, 1946. (The Coptic Passio and Miracles, including the founding and translation legend.)
  • Frankfurter, David, ed. Pilgrimage and Holy Space in Late Antique Egypt. Leiden: Brill, 1998. (The pilgrimage context of Egyptian saints’ shrines.)
  • Papaconstantinou, Arietta. Le culte des saints en Égypte des Byzantins aux Abbassides. Paris: CNRS, 2001. (The documented cult of Menas among Egyptian saints’ cults.)
  • UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Abu Mena. (World Heritage inscription, 1979; List of World Heritage in Danger, 2001.)