Bakaliaros Skordalia — Greek Fried Salt Cod with Garlic Purée
Bakaliaros skordalia is the dish Greeks reach for on the Annunciation and Palm Sunday — the two great fish days that fall inside the long fasts. Salt cod is soaked back to life, dipped in a light beer batter, and fried until shatteringly crisp, then served with skordalia, a thick, pungent purée of potato, garlic, and olive oil that doubles as sauce and side. The contrast of the crackling golden fish against the cool, fiercely garlicky purée is the whole point. It is festive food, the reward at the end of weeks of stricter eating.
This belongs squarely on fish days, with both fish and generous oil. The skordalia itself is an oil-day staple and can be made and eaten on its own; the fried cod is what makes the plate a feast.
FASTING LEVEL: Fast With Fish (skordalia alone is fast-with-oil — see notes)
SERVINGS: 4
TIME: 45 minutes (plus 24-36 hours to desalt the cod)
INGREDIENTS
- 500g salt cod (bakaliaros), desalted (see notes), or 500g fresh cod
- 1 cup (120g) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- 3/4 cup (180ml) cold beer or sparkling water
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- Pinch of salt
- Vegetable oil, for frying
- SKORDALIA:
- 500g floury potatoes, peeled and quartered
- 5-7 cloves garlic
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/3 cup (80ml) extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or lemon juice
METHOD
1. Make the skordalia first. Boil the potatoes in salted water until very tender, about 18 minutes. Drain, reserving a little cooking water.
2. Using a mortar and pestle (or a fork), crush the garlic with the salt into a smooth paste. Mash the warm potatoes until smooth, then beat in the garlic paste.
3. Drizzle in the olive oil a little at a time, beating constantly, followed by the vinegar. Loosen with a spoonful of reserved water if needed. The skordalia should be thick, fluffy, and sharply garlicky. Set aside.
4. Cut the desalted cod into 6cm pieces and pat dry. Whisk the flour, beer, baking powder, and a pinch of salt into a smooth, pourable batter.
5. Heat 3cm of oil in a deep pan to 180C. Dust each piece of cod lightly in flour, then dip in the batter, letting the excess drip off.
6. Fry in batches for 3-4 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and crisp. Drain on a rack or paper.
7. Serve the fried cod hot with a generous spoonful of skordalia alongside, and lemon wedges if you like.
NOTES
- To desalt salt cod, soak it in cold water in the fridge for 24-36 hours, changing the water 3-4 times. Taste a small piece before cooking. Fresh cod skips this entirely — just salt it lightly.
- Skordalia keeps several days refrigerated and is a fast-with-oil dish on its own, excellent with boiled greens (horta) or beets on non-fish days.
- For extra-fluffy skordalia, some cooks blend in a handful of soaked stale bread or ground walnuts in place of some potato.
- Sparkling water in place of beer keeps the batter just as crisp if you prefer to avoid alcohol.
NUTRITION (approximate per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 32g | Carbs: 42g | Fat: 21g | Fiber: 3g | Iron: 2mg