Other Fast With Oil

Patatas bravas is the essential Spanish tapa — crispy fried potato cubes served with a bold, smoky-spicy tomato sauce. Every bar in Spain has its own version, and arguments about whose bravas are the best are taken as seriously as arguments about religion. The potatoes must be crispy on the outside and fluffy inside. The sauce must have heat, smokiness, and enough tomato sweetness to keep you reaching for one more piece.

This is not a side dish on a fasting day. With enough potatoes and enough sauce, this is dinner. Serve it on a platter in the center of the table with toothpicks and bread for soaking up the sauce, and it becomes the kind of communal meal that Lent needs more of.

FASTING LEVEL: Fast With Oil (oil permitted — the potatoes are fried, and the sauce is built in oil)
SERVINGS: 4
TIME: 45 minutes

INGREDIENTS

For the potatoes:
- 1 kg waxy potatoes (Yukon Gold or similar), peeled and cut into rough 3cm cubes
- Vegetable oil, for frying (about 1 cup for shallow frying, or fill a deep fryer)
- Coarse sea salt

For the bravas sauce:
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (400g) crushed tomatoes
- 1 tablespoon sweet smoked paprika (pimenton de la Vera — this is non-negotiable)
- 1/2 teaspoon hot smoked paprika or cayenne pepper
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar (or red wine vinegar)
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- Pinch of ground cumin (optional — some regions add it, some consider it heresy)

METHOD

1. Make the bravas sauce first. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5-6 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add both paprikas, stir for 30 seconds (do not burn the paprika — it turns bitter), then add the crushed tomatoes, sugar, cumin if using, and salt.

2. Simmer the sauce for 15-18 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and reduced. Stir in the sherry vinegar. Blend with an immersion blender until smooth, or leave it slightly chunky — both versions are legitimate in Spain. Taste and adjust the heat and salt. Keep warm.

3. While the sauce simmers, parboil the potato cubes. Place them in a pot of cold salted water, bring to a boil, and cook for 8-10 minutes until the edges are soft but the centers still have some resistance. Drain and let them steam dry in the colander for 5 minutes. This step is essential — wet potatoes splatter in oil and will not crisp.

4. Heat the frying oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat (about 180C/350F if using a thermometer). Fry the potatoes in batches without crowding the pan — crowding steams the potatoes instead of frying them. Cook for 6-8 minutes per batch, turning occasionally, until deep golden and crispy on all sides.

5. Drain on paper towels and season immediately with coarse sea salt while still glistening.

6. Pile the potatoes on a platter. Spoon the bravas sauce generously over the top — not on the side, over the top. The sauce should pool around the potatoes and cling to the crispy edges.

7. Serve immediately with toothpicks and bread. These do not wait.

NOTES

- Smoked paprika (pimenton de la Vera) is the soul of bravas sauce. Regular paprika is a completely different product — it is not smoked and will not give you the right flavor. Sweet smoked paprika provides the base; hot smoked paprika provides the heat. Both are available at any decent spice shop or online.
- Parboiling before frying is the technique that gives you fluffy interiors with shatteringly crisp exteriors. Skip it and you get evenly cooked but not particularly crispy potatoes.
- Sherry vinegar is traditional and adds an irreplaceable tangy depth. Red wine vinegar is the closest substitute. Do not skip the acid.
- In some bars, bravas are served with alioli (garlic mayonnaise) alongside the tomato sauce. During fasting, skip the alioli — it contains egg.

NUTRITION (approximate per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 7g | Carbs: 52g | Fat: 22g | Fiber: 6g | Vitamin C: 35mg