Hamsi Pilavı — Turkish Black Sea Anchovy Rice

Other Fast With Fish Published June 13, 2026

On the Black Sea coast, the hamsi — fresh anchovy — is almost a religion, and hamsi pilavı is its grandest expression: a buttery, spiced pilaf of rice, pine nuts, currants, and herbs, lined and topped with butterflied anchovies and baked until the fish steams into the rice and perfumes every grain. It is humble fish turned into something celebratory, rich with protein and warm with allspice and cinnamon. A single tin of anchovies can feel like an afterthought; a whole dish built around them is a revelation.

This is fish-day food for the blessed feasts. The pilaf base — rice, onion, pine nuts, currants, herbs, all cooked in olive oil — is a complete dish on its own, so for an ordinary oil day you can leave out the anchovies and serve it as a pilaf.

FASTING LEVEL: Fast With Fish
SERVINGS: 4 to 6
TIME: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

- 600g fresh anchovies, heads removed, gutted and butterflied (or 500g sardine fillets)
- 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup (35g) pine nuts
- 1 1/2 cups (300g) long-grain rice, rinsed
- 3 tablespoons currants or raisins
- 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 3 cups (720ml) hot water or vegetable stock
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
- Salt and black pepper, to taste
- Lemon wedges, to serve

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 190C (375F). Lay the butterflied anchovies flat, season lightly with salt, and set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 8 minutes until soft. Add the pine nuts and toast until golden, 2-3 minutes.

3. Stir in the rice, currants, allspice, and cinnamon, coating the grains in the oil for 1 minute. Pour in the hot water or stock, season with salt and pepper, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low for 12 minutes until the liquid is absorbed.

4. Off the heat, fold in the dill and parsley. The rice should be just barely undercooked — it will finish in the oven.

5. Oil a round baking dish and line the bottom and sides with about half the anchovies, skin-side down, fanning them out like petals. Spoon the rice on top and press gently level.

6. Cover the rice completely with the remaining anchovies, skin-side up. Drizzle with a little olive oil, cover with foil, and bake for 25 minutes. Uncover for the last 5 minutes to crisp the top.

7. Let rest 10 minutes, then invert onto a platter or serve from the dish. Serve with lemon wedges.

NOTES

- Fresh anchovies are best, but sardine fillets or smelt make a fine substitute.
- Soak the currants in warm water for 10 minutes if they are very dry.
- For an oil day without fish, skip the lining and topping and serve the spiced pilaf on its own, garnished with extra pine nuts.
- A pinch of red pepper flakes in the rice adds welcome heat.