Polenta with Water-Sauteed Mushroom Ragu

Romanian Fast Without Oil Published April 11, 2026

Mamaliga — polenta — is the staff of life in Romanian cooking, and during Lent it replaces bread at most meals. Cooked properly, it is creamy, substantial, and provides a blank canvas for whatever goes on top. This mushroom ragu uses water-sauteing to develop deep, concentrated mushroom flavor without a drop of oil. The technique works because mushrooms release enormous amounts of liquid when heated — you cook off that liquid, then add small splashes of water to deglaze the pan repeatedly, building fond and intensity each time.

In Romanian monasteries, polenta with ciuperci (mushrooms) is standard weeknight fare during the fasting periods. It fills the belly, costs almost nothing, and tastes like the forest.

FASTING LEVEL: Fast Without Oil (cooked food permitted, no oil, no wine)
SERVINGS: 4
TIME: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

For the polenta:
- 1 cup coarse cornmeal (polenta grind, not fine)
- 4 cups water
- 1 teaspoon salt

For the mushroom ragu:
- 500g mixed mushrooms (cremini, oyster, and shiitake work well together), sliced
- 1 large onion, finely diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (400g) crushed tomatoes
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- Fresh parsley, chopped, for serving

METHOD

1. Start the polenta. Bring 4 cups of water and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil in a heavy-bottomed pot. Slowly pour in the cornmeal in a thin stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Reduce heat to very low, switch to a wooden spoon, and stir every few minutes for 25-30 minutes until the polenta is thick, pulls away from the sides of the pot, and the grains are tender. Cover between stirs.

2. While the polenta cooks, make the ragu. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms — they will seem like too many, but they shrink dramatically. Cook without stirring for 3-4 minutes until they begin to release their liquid.

3. Once the liquid appears, stir and continue cooking for 8-10 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms begin to brown on the bottom of the pan. This browning is your flavor — do not rush it.

4. Push the mushrooms to one side. Add the diced onion with 3 tablespoons of water. Stir the onion frequently, adding a tablespoon of water whenever the pan gets dry, for 5-6 minutes until the onion is soft and golden.

5. Add the garlic, smoked paprika, and thyme. Stir for 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and stir for another minute — it should darken slightly.

6. Add the crushed tomatoes, soy sauce, bay leaf, and 1/2 cup water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10-12 minutes until the ragu is thick and rich. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaf.

7. Serve the polenta in shallow bowls, topped generously with the mushroom ragu and scattered with fresh parsley.

NOTES

- Coarse-ground cornmeal is essential for proper polenta texture. Instant polenta works in a pinch but lacks the body and slight grittiness that makes real polenta satisfying.
- The soy sauce adds umami depth that compensates for the absence of oil. It is not traditional in Romanian cooking, but it solves a real problem.
- In Romania, polenta is often cooled, sliced, and served in firm slabs alongside the ragu. To do this, pour the hot polenta onto a wooden board, let it cool for 15 minutes, and slice with a string or knife.
- Leftovers: slice cold polenta into rounds and pan-fry in a dry non-stick pan until crisp on both sides. Top with reheated ragu.